Amalfi Coast Road Trip

Mamma mia from the Amalfi Coast, my thrill-seeking travelers! I've just driven one of the world's most beautiful and terrifying roads, and I'm writing this while my chlorophyll levels return to normal. The Amalfi Coast road is a narrow ribbon of asphalt carved into dramatic cliffs that plunge straight into the Mediterranean. One side: sheer rock walls. Other side: sheer drops to sparkling blue water hundreds of meters below. Constant blind curves. Buses that somehow squeeze past. It's absolutely beautiful and absolutely insane. I loved every terrifying minute.

The coast stretches from Sorrento to Salerno, with colorful villages clinging impossibly to the cliffs between. I started in Positano, the most photographed town on the coast, where pastel-colored houses cascade down to a small beach like architectural waterfalls. The streets are actually stairs—hundreds of them—connecting the town's various levels. As a cactus without legs (I roll, mostly), the terrain was challenging. But the reward was worth it: lemon trees everywhere, bougainvillea exploding in purple, and views that belong on postcards and desktop wallpapers and dreams.

The lemons deserve their own paragraph. Amalfi Coast lemons are giants—the size of softballs, with thick, fragrant rinds and sweet flesh. They grow on terraces carved into the hillsides, protected under black netting, and they're used for everything: limoncello (the iconic lemon liqueur), lemon pasta, lemon cake, lemon everything. I did a limoncello tasting at a family estate where they've been making the stuff for generations. The limoncello was bright, sweet, and strong—served ice-cold and consumed quickly. I bought bottles for everyone I know. They'll forgive me for the expense once they taste it.

The town of Amalfi itself sits in a narrow valley, its cathedral dominating a central piazza that buzzes with life. I ate seafood on a restaurant terrace overlooking the harbor, watching fishermen bring in the day's catch. Ravello, perched high above, offers some of the coast's most spectacular views and a peaceful escape from the tourist crowds below. The gardens of Villa Rufolo are legendary—a riot of flowers and exotic plants clinging to clifftop terraces, with the infinite blue Mediterranean as backdrop. Wagner composed here. I understand why. This place demands art.

Driving tips for the brave: go early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst crowds. Rent the smallest car available—trust me on this. Use your horn liberally on blind curves; everyone does. And consider hiring a driver if hairpin turns over cliff edges don't appeal. The alternative is ferries and buses, which are less stressful but also less flexible. Whatever method you choose, budget extra time. You'll want to stop constantly for photos, for views, for spontaneous limoncello breaks. The coast doesn't reward rushing.

The Amalfi Coast is not an undiscovered gem—it's been attracting visitors since Roman times, and summer brings serious crowds. But the beauty transcends the tourism. Even in a packed restaurant with selfie sticks everywhere, you look out at that blue water, those vertical cliffs, those terraced lemon groves, and you understand why people keep coming. Some places are famous because they deserve to be. The Amalfi Coast is one of them. My advice? Visit anyway, preferably in shoulder season, and let the dramatic beauty overwhelm you. It will. 🌵🍋🇮🇹