Temple Hopping in Siem Reap

Choum reap suor from Cambodia! Your intrepid cactus has arrived in Siem Reap, gateway to the Angkor Archaeological Park, home to the most impressive collection of ancient temples I've ever encountered. Built between the 9th and 15th centuries, these structures were once the center of the Khmer Empire, which ruled much of Southeast Asia. Then the jungle reclaimed them for centuries before French explorers "rediscovered" them. I've spent four days wandering through ruins that make every other historical site I've visited feel modest by comparison.

Angkor Wat sunrise is a bucket-list experience for a reason. I arrived at 4:30 AM to secure a spot at the reflecting pools, where the temple's iconic silhouette appears in mirror image as the sun rises behind it. Hundreds of others had the same idea—tourists from every country, professional photographers with tripods, monks in saffron robes, and one very determined cactus who refused to be outpositioned. As the sky shifted from dark to pink to gold, and the temple emerged from shadow like a slow revelation, everyone fell silent. Some moments are too big for chatter. This was one.

But Angkor Wat is just the beginning. The Angkor complex spreads over 400 square kilometers and contains dozens of major temples. Bayon, with its 200+ serene stone faces gazing in all directions, is equally mesmerizing and far less crowded than Angkor Wat. Ta Prohm—the "Tomb Raider temple"—has been left partially unrestored, with massive silk-cotton trees growing through the ruins, roots snaking over stones like frozen rivers. Walking through Ta Prohm feels like discovering a lost civilization yourself, even with other tourists around. The jungle and the stonework have merged into something neither fully natural nor fully built.

Temple fatigue is real. By day three, I was getting ruins-drunk, unable to distinguish one elaborately carved lintel from another. The solution: pace yourself. I hired a tuk-tuk driver named Sophea who became my guide, therapist, and friend. He knew which temples to visit when (sunset at Pre Rup, midday at the shaded temples, skip the crowded ones during peak hours), where to find the best amok (Cambodian curry), and when I needed a break. He also told me about growing up during the Khmer Rouge era and losing family to the genocide. The beauty of Angkor exists alongside tremendous tragedy. Cambodia demands we hold both.

Beyond the famous temples, I explored lesser-known corners of the park. Banteay Srei, a small temple with the finest carvings in Angkor, sits 25 kilometers from the main cluster but rewards the journey. Beng Mealea is a completely unrestored ruin, jungle-consumed and atmospheric, where you clamber over fallen stones and peer through tree roots. The floating villages on Tonle Sap lake, though touristy, offer a glimpse into lives lived entirely on water. Each day revealed something new, some different angle on this extraordinary place.

If you're planning an Angkor visit, buy the three-day pass—one day isn't enough, and you'll want time to absorb what you're seeing. Wake up early (temples open at 5 AM) to beat the heat and crowds. Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) out of respect for active religious sites. Hire a guide who can explain the Hindu mythology and Buddhist symbolism carved into every surface. And remember that you're walking through a living culture, not a museum. Cambodians worship at these temples, tend them, and have complex feelings about foreigners tramping through their sacred spaces. Be respectful. Be grateful. Be amazed. 🌵🛕🇰🇭